Quick Surfing History Facts

You love to surf, but you don’t love small talk. Hey, that’s perfectly normal. Small talk wants to alleviate awkwardness, but it only serves to enhance it. To combat this pervasive problem, the following are actually interesting facts about surfing. Use a couple of these gems next time you find yourself needing about 30 seconds of banter.

• Surfing is among the oldest sports on Earth. While the precise origin of surfing is uncertain, prehistoric stone carvings in Chan Chan in Peru that date back 5,000 years show people surfing.
• The Hawaiians referred to surfing as he’enalu, which means “wave sliding.” For Hawaiians, surfing was a central part of their religion. Surfing not only encompassed deep spiritual links with the ocean, but it was also a way for ceremonial chiefs to assert their dominance.
• Captain Cook of the HMS Endeavour is credited with bringing the surfboard to Europe and the rest of the world. He noticed them in his travels of the Pacific in 1779. He saw a surfer whom he described as someone “who had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and smoothly by the seas.” Unfortunately the Europeans that traveled to Hawaii thought poorly of surfing and it was banned in the islands for many years.
• The surfboard has developed over centuries. At first they were just planks of wood. The shape was whatever the person riding it wanted, they had no surfboard fins and could be up to 15 feet long. This made them extremely hard to control. In 1937 a teenage cut a V shape on the rear of his board and the modern surfboard was created.
• Several different milestones in surfing include the introduction of surfing to Australia in 1915 by the Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku and 1926 when Tom Blake became the first to surf Malibu Beach.
• WWII led to the invention of chemicals and materials that helped revolutionize the construction of surfboards. Styrofoam, fiberglass, and resin all helped create boards that were more sturdy and lightweight.
• Some say surfing is not a profession but in 2009 Kelly Slater earned $3 million. Additionally, the University of Plymouth University in the UK offers a Surf Science and Technology degree.
• With surfing comes a lifestyle and its own language. The term "hang ten" is used when a surfer places all ten of his toes at the front of the surfboard while riding a wave. Due to the need for extremely good balance, most surfers can not accomplish this maneuver. A "hodad" is a beginning surfer who generally gets in the way of more experienced surfers.
• For surfers the average wave is from 1 foot to 30 feet. The largest recoded wave was generated by a tsunami back in the Lituya Bay, Alaska in 1958. It was over 1,700 feet tall. In 2011 a 78 foot wave was surfed by Andrew Cotton off the coast of Portugal.
• Two movies helped catapult surfing into popularity: Gidget (1959) and The Endless Summer (1966). These movies prompted a surf culture that influenced music, fashion, and even the English language.

Surf gear has evolved over the years to make riding waves easier while giving unique options to pick from according to wave and surf conditions. Regular surf fins and longboard fins now have a variety of set-ups to regulate and focus your ride. Additionally, accessories like surfing wetsuits and surfing leashes have become much better over time, offering more protection and reliability. Get your gear!

The Importance of Surfboard Leashes

Get a Handle on Surfboard Leashes

A surfboard leash or leg rope is the cord that attaches a surfboard to the surfer. It prevents the surfboard from being swept away by waves and stops runaway surfboards from hitting other surfers and swimmers. Modern leashes comprise a urethane cord where one end has a band with a velcro strap attached to the surfer's trailing foot, and the opposite has a velcro strap attached to the tail end of the surfboard. – Wikipedia.com

• Cuff. These days it is pretty standard to have a double wrap-around Velcro cuff in order to add extra strength and security to your connection. Key pockets have been implemented into some cuffs and are a good option for warm water city surfers that need a place to put their car key.
• Swivel. Some leashes have a swivel feature at their attachment point to the cuff that allows the leash to spin and twist without the rider, preventing tangles that can trip up your feet. It is up to you to decide whether you prefer a one or two bearing swivel, or none at all.
• Cord. Most leash cords are made of polyurethane. Typically, the thicker the cord, the stronger it will be and the less likely it will break. However, the thicker the cord, the more drag it will create in the water.
• Rail Saver. The rail saver is the fabric that attaches the cord to the surf board. Its job is to provide a secure connection and not put too much strain on the rail. The wider and longer the fabric, the more it will protect the rail when you fall off the board and the cord is taut. While longer and wider rail savers may offer more protection, they also create more drag on the water’s surface. It is a matter of personal preference whether you value decreased drag or increased rail protection more. - Courtesy of Evo.com.

Generally speaking, a surf leash is seen as a necessary accessory for surfing. Some state beaches even have laws that mandate all surfers to wear surf leashes. With thrashing waves, a surfboard leash prevents the issue of runaway boards. A runaway board can cause serious injury to an unsuspecting surfer and can even knock surfers unconscious. For this reason, surf leashes are a must for crowded waters. In addition, a surf leash means that when you wipe out, your board is never far away. Exhaustion is deadly while in the water, especially with forceful waves and currents surrounding you. Swimming to a runaway board can easily exhaust a surfer making drowning a possibility before even attempting the lengthy swim to shore. - swimoutlet.com

Don’t forget to scoop up other accessories like surfboard bags, surfboard fins & other surf gear, too!

A Smarter Surfboard Fin

Surfers know the area they ride, also referred to as the surf zone, is a dynamic and scientifically-intriguing area that is hard to get data on due to the aggressive nature of the waves. This got some smart people to thinking. If they could somehow affix a smart device to the surfboard, perhaps in or on the surfboard fins, then maybe some magic could happen. Well… here’s Smartfin.

"By putting sensors directly onto surfboards, we can collect data and begin to learn about changes in temperature, salinity, and pH, which are properties that have huge implications for the species that live in nearshore ecosystems," the Smartfin developers note.

Smartfin is the result of a partnership between non-profits, engineers, and the scientific community. It is the brain-child of Dr. Andrew Stern of The Lost Bird Project. In 2015, researchers at Scripps Institution of Oceanography, one of the world’s leading institutions for oceanographic research, came on board to validate the scientific application of Smartfin in the surf zone. Surfrider Foundation joined the partnership in June 2016 to provide logistical and outreach support for the distribution of fins to its network of surfers worldwide. (Excerpt from the Smartfin website.)

Imagine being able to help contribute to shaping the oceanic ecosystem while you enjoy surfing the waves as usual! Currently, the Smartfin is available on those with a Future fin setup, but there may be plans to extend that to other brands as the project continues.

6 Ways a Surfboard Bag is Worth It

You probably spent a grip on your last surfboard as you cruised the latest surfboard sales hoping to catch a bargain, and that’s just tossing money on the pile of all the cash you spent on your entire collection, which, let’s face it, if you’re even a novice surfer, you have at least two or three, plus all those surf fins and extra surf gear laying around. Long story short, you have a surfing shrine at your house, but it’s probably not a tidy one.

At least make sure your surfboards are wrapped up in surfboard bags for storage, travel or pretty much whenever you’re not riding the waves because dents and dings hurt your flow, and scratches 

don’t look good on an otherwise crisp and clean board.

6 Things a Surfboard Bag Will Save You From

1. DINGS - Dings from knocking your board around the house.
2. NICKS - Nicks from when you find that the dog was playing tug-of-war with your leash.
3. DELAM - Delam from the sun as you left it baking like a chocolate chip cookie in the backyard.
4. FADING - Color fading from too much sun exposure.
5. CRACKS - Tail cracks from it dropping out of your car while you take off your wetsuit.
6. SCRATCHES - Scratches from the cat that decided your board was a humping post.

Look How Far Surfboards and Surfing Has Come

Surfboards have come a long way over the many years since their inception. In fact, the entire surfing industry has come a very long way, bringing the entire collection of surf gear with it.

Let’s take a look back via the might and power of Wikipedia:

A surfboard is an elongated platform used in surfing. Surfboards are relatively light, but are strong enough to support an individual standing on them while riding an ocean wave. They were invented in ancient Hawaii, where they were known as papa he'e nalu in the Hawaiian language, they were usually made of wood from local trees, such as koa, and were often over 15 feet (5 m) in length and extremely heavy. Major advances over the years include the addition of one or more fins (skegs) on the bottom rear of the board to improve directional stability, and numerous improvements in materials and shape.

Modern surfboards are made of polyurethane or polystyrene foam covered with layers of fiberglass cloth, and polyester or epoxy resin. The result is a light and strong surfboard that is buoyant and maneuverable. The Polystyrene surfboard was invented by Reginald Sainsbury of Wilcove, Torpoint in the early 1960s whilst working for the Poron Insulation company, Millbrook, Cornwall who were looking to expand into the leisure industry. Recent developments in surfboard technology have included the use of carbon fiber and kevlar composites, as well as experimentation in biodegradable and ecologically friendly resins made from organic sources. Each year, approximately 400,000 surfboards are manufactured.

Great Surfing Quotes

"My passion for surfing was more than my fear of sharks." - Bethany Hamilton

"Surfing is attitude dancing." - Gerry Lopez

"Surfing to me is like playing music. You play different melodies with different boards." - Skip Frye

"Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind." - Laird Hamilton

"There are a million ways to surf, and as long as you're smiling you're doing it right." - Unknown Author

About Surfing Wetsuits

What is a surfing wetsuit?

A wetsuit is a garment, usually made of foamed neoprene, which is worn by surfers, divers, windsurfers, canoeists, and others engaged in water sports and other activities in or on water, primarily providing thermal insulation, but also buoyancy and protection from abrasion, ultraviolet exposure and stings from marine organisms. The insulation properties depend on bubbles of gas enclosed within the material, which reduce its ability to conduct heat. The bubbles also give the wetsuit a low density, providing buoyancy in water.

Why do surfers wear wetsuits?

A wetsuit works by getting wet and then trapping a thin layer of water against your body which then heats up and keeps you warm.

When should you use a wetsuit?

Commercial wetsuit manufacturers suggest wearing a wetsuit that is 1/16 to 1/8 inch thick in water. In water 50 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, you should use a wetsuit that is 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick.

How do you take care of a wetsuit?

• Rinse your gear with fresh water. Do not use hot water, use cool or tepid water.
• Never wash your wetsuit in a washer or with other garments.
• Use a special wetsuit cleaner that will help remove salt, chlorine and organic residues.
• Hang to drip dry away from direct heat and sun.

Where’s the best place to buy a wetsuit?

There a lots of local beach shops to buy a surfing wetsuit, but no place has a larger selection than the #1 surf shop online, TheSurfboardWarehouse.com. In addition to wetsuits, get your surfboards, surfboard fins, and other surf gear for a great price and shipped directly to your door.

About Surfboards

surf·board

/ˈsərfbôrd/

noun

Short definition: A long, narrow streamlined board used in surfing.

Long definition:

A surfboard is an elongated platform used in surfing. Surfboards are relatively light, but are strong enough to support an individual standing on them while riding an ocean wave. Major advances over the years include the addition of one or more fins on the bottom rear of the board to improve directional stability, and numerous improvements in materials and shape.

The Surfboard Warehouse (https://www.thesurfboardwarehouse.com/) is the largest surf shop online for surf accessories and surf gear like Surfboards, Surf Fins, Surfboard Bags, Surfing Wetsuits and more!

All About the Surfing Wetsuit

On the market for a new surfing wetsuit so you can comfortably ride the next set of waves? Cool. First though, it’s important to know about a thing, especially if that thing is something you use on a near daily basis. Allow Wikipedia to drop some knowledge about that wetsuit:

A wetsuit is a garment, usually made of foamed neoprene, which is worn by surfers, divers, windsurfers, canoeists, and others engaged in water sports and other activities in or on water, primarily providing thermal insulation, but also buoyancy and protection from abrasion, ultraviolet exposure and stings from marine organisms. The insulation properties depend on bubbles of gas enclosed within the material, which reduce its ability to conduct heat. The bubbles also give the wetsuit a low density, providing buoyancy in water. 

Hugh Bradner, a University of California, Berkeley, physicist invented the modern wetsuit in 1952. Wetsuits became available in the mid-1950s and evolved as the relatively fragile foamed neoprene was first backed, and later sandwiched, with thin sheets of tougher material such as nylon or later Lycra/Spandex. Improvements in the way joints in the wetsuit were made by gluing, taping and blindstitching, helped the suit to remain waterproof and reduce flushing, the replacement of water trapped between suit and body by cold water from the outside. Further improvements in the seals at the neck, wrists, ankles and zippers produced a suit known as a "semi-dry". 

Different types of wetsuit are made for different uses and for different temperatures. Suits range from a thin (2 mm or less) "shortie", covering just the torso, to a full 8 mm semi-dry, usually complemented by neoprene boots, gloves and hood. 

The difference between a wetsuit and a dry suit is that a wetsuit allows water to enter the suit, while dry suits are designed to prevent water from entering, thus keeping the undergarments dry and preserving their insulating effectiveness. Wetsuits can give adequate protection in warm to moderately cold waters. Dry suits are typically more expensive and more complex to don but can be used where protection from low temperatures or contaminated water is needed.

Now that you’re that much more informed about surf wetsuits, cruise on over to your local surf shop online (why get up from your computer unless you’re headed to the beach?) and scoop up that wetsuit. While you’re there, a new surfboard bag may be something you’d like to look at as well. The selections and options at The Surfboard Warehouse are pretty much endless.